Cloth and Hide

My new fav jeans

I’ve been pining after a pair of orslow 105’s for a while now. Mid/high waisted and straight leg, they tick all my boxes for fit. And to top it off, they come with a 30inch inseam so I don’t even need to get them hemmed.

I had already resolved myself to saving up for month or so to cope with the price tag when an innocuous pair of “orslow denim jeans” appeared on eBay, shipping from Japan. They were a third of the retail price and marked “preowned” but seemed to have no fading whatsoever. I enquired a bit more and they were indeed a pair of 105’s in my size and three days later I was wearing ’em.

Orslow is a relatively new brand in the Japanese denim game but they offer some really interesting stuff. Their most popular model is probably their 107 “ivy fit” model which has a combination of mid/high waist and tapering. Plenty of guys much better dressed than me swear by them -just see Gerry in Melbourne here.

I already have a pair of Levi’s 501ct’s which is a similar (probably slimmer) cut to the 107’s and a pair of 3sixteen CS-100x which is much fuller and also straight leg. The Orslow 105 sits in the middle of these two. While the 3sixteens work great with a more workwear aesthetic, especially with the longer inseam and big cuffs, the 105’s look just a little bit more dressed up but still relaxed.

The real talking point about these jeans though is the character of the denim. You really have to see them in real life to appreciate the texture. The fabric has this hairy, unrefined, slightly slubby texture to it and it’s really lovely and surprisingly soft. The one wash just lightens the denim slightly and gives it a bit of a worn in look (and fades and ropes the hem which is nice). At 12.5 oz they are a good all-rounder except for the dead of summer.

Now some points of contention: Orslow seems to have gone for the repro details so there is a paper patch instead of a leather one, and there is significant left leg twist. That’s to do with the way early jeans were made which caused more tension on one of the legs and is worsened by fibres shrinking a bit after washing. Neither details are a deal-breaker for me but I can see plenty of complaints about this on forums.

Sizing is a bit weird as there seems to be two sets of measurements floating around on the internet. For what it’s worth I’m a size 1 which amounts to an actual waist measurement of 31 inches.

So right now these are my daily wearer. They go just about everything and I’m getting a bit of pocket and knee fading.

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