Footwear

Smoke Jumper

So years ago I saw on Instagram (I believe it was Papanui’s) a pair of John Lofgren donkey punchers. At first I was like wtf is this? It was a pair of boots, but with lace holes that seemed to extend further down the vamp than normal so that they kinda looked like an angry pug. And then there was this funny moustache thing coming out from the laces and the curvy, slightly effeminate heels. I was not immediately taken by the style but the image swam to the back of my mind to be retrieved at a later date.

During my visit to Blue Works vintage clothing I saw Steve wearing a similar design but without the moustache (which I later learned is called a false tongue or kiltie). I believe his are a two-tone version where the upper and the lower leathers are different colours. The combination of extra lacing and rounded toe makes for a heavy-duty, tough-looking boot. Steve was wearing his with OG107 fatigue pants and I thought they looked bloody great. I learned that his pair was from Wesco and I slowly but surely fell down the rabbit hole of Pacific Northwest boot companies. Continue reading “Smoke Jumper”

Footwear · Musings

Rethinking Black Shoes

Ask me a year ago (hell, a season ago) and I would have said that you don’t really need black shoes. Ok, maybe one pair for weddings/funerals/job interviews that you dust off occasionally, but the rest of the time you can wear brown. Black is just too stuffy and formal. Brown shows that you are more casual, cooler, more stylish.

But lately I’ve been coming back around. I don’t know if it’s because I’ve been looking at too many Japanese denim blogs and Insta accounts or my current obsession with Pacific Northwest bootmakers lately (more on that later) or just too many guys wear brown derbies these days. It’s not that my opinion has changed about sleek, formal looking black dress shoes – I still think black oxfords are still too formal for my day-to-day wear. It’s the casual black footwear that’s got my attention lately.  Continue reading “Rethinking Black Shoes”

Footwear

1 year on: Yuketen Maine Guide Ox FO 

I picked up a pair of Yuketen Maine Guide Ox FO by accident about a year ago. I have always loved handsewn moccasin styles from Maine, and Yuketen’s slightly offbeat sensibilities add an extra level of interest for me. That intersection of style, fashion and old school craftsmanship is rarely seen in the shoe-making world. So when this barely used pair appeared on eBay, I put in a low bid, not really expecting to win, but win I did and ended up with what would become one of my favourite pairs of shoes.

The Maine Guide Ox is a low version of Yuketen’s signature Maine Guide boot, Yuki Matsuda’s interpretation of the hunting boot. Pairing true moccasin construction with thick boot soles makes for a comfy pair of boots, and my low top versions are no different.

Continue reading “1 year on: Yuketen Maine Guide Ox FO “

Footwear

Review: Nigel Cabourn high top army trainers

I guess I’m a bit of a sucker for punishment or I don’t learn from my mistakes, etc. As a pimply teenager I had a pair of off-white converse allstars like just about everyone else and the toe box was completely wrong for my foot shape. My pinky toe would constantly rub against the side of the shoe so I either had a blister or no skin on it left by the end of the day. Fast forward to a couple of years ago when white sneakers were all the rage and I was too cheap to fork out for a pair of common projects, so of course I go out and get me a pair of leather Jacket Purcells. The leather was shit and of course they were hell for my pinky toes!

Fast forward some more to more recent times and Nigel Cabourn’s army style sneakers kept coming up on Instagram. Something about the utilitarian aesthetics, chunky soles and old school colours appealed to me. But you know, I had enough sneakers I don’t even wear so I filed it away in the back of my mind somewhere. But they kept coming up! I saw a cool pair of “all-weather boots” on the Drake’s website and the “made in Japan” description and I couldn’t help doing some research.  Continue reading “Review: Nigel Cabourn high top army trainers”

Footwear

Review: Paraboot Chambords in dark brown suede 

Maybe I’m getting old or I’ve always had old man sensibilities. I mean, I do wear alot of cardigans and tweeds. I have always had an affinity for split toes. I originally had my eye on a pair of suede Dovers on the 606 last from Edward Green. But I was torn between that makeup and the more common dark oak. In the end, the fantastic burnishing on the calf won and I’ll be saving for a pair of dark oak calf Dovers in the future.

In the meantime my search for a pair of dark brown derbies/apron toes took me in other directions. There’s surprisingly few options. Suede Norwegian split toes (NSTs) can be had from EG (as mentioned), Carmina, Alden, Tricker’s, Allen Edmonds, Crockett & Jones, and Paraboot.

Continue reading “Review: Paraboot Chambords in dark brown suede “

Footwear

The Stretching Experiment

I had a bad run a couple of years ago where I bought a few loafers that were half a size too small (the perils of buying without trying!). My first lament was a pair of Alden tassel loafers in colour #8 shell cordovan (the Brooks Brothers version). I think the Aberdeen last is just too pointy for my fat, wide toes. The length is actually fine and I get a bit of heel slippage but halfway through my day, my fourth toe feels like it’s about to fall off. My second lament was a pair of Rancourt beefroll penny loafers in natural chromexcel. The strap was painfully tight initially but I even got through that and the leather actually moulded to my feet quite well. But I think the tightness around my big toe contributed to a bit of stretching and caused a bit of a squeak with every step if I walked too fast. So about 2 months ago I ordered a cheapo shoe stretcher off eBay.  Continue reading “The Stretching Experiment”

Cloth and Hide · Footwear

Sock it to ’em

Socks are often overlooked as an accessory and lately I’ve been paying more attention to them. I guess it’s logical… if you have better shoes, you start to invest in better socks. Why get better socks? Well they last longer for one. And they look better to start off with, and for longer as the colours don’t run or fade. Here are 3 brands I have been enjoying lately – these are mostly chunkier styles as it is winter here and I am wearing heavier shoes and boots. Winter also allows me to be more creative and crazy with my patterns!

Continue reading “Sock it to ’em”

Footwear · Local Spotlight

A chance visit to Double Monk

I happened to be in the city for a work-related reason and couldn’t resist the chance to visit Double Monk in The Strand Arcade. These guys have been in Melbourne for ages but have recently opened a Sydney store about 18 months ago. Like all good menswear stores, it is tucked away so you have to go looking for it on the top floor right in the corner. It is not a very big store and there are floor-to-ceiling boxes full of shoes from names like Edward Green, Crockett & Jones, John Lobb and most recently, Alden of New England (which was what got me so excited).  Continue reading “A chance visit to Double Monk”

Footwear

Massdrop x Allen Edmonds Chukka boots – 5 months on

This drop is live again right now with 8 days left. I was one of the guys who joined the very first drop last year so I thought I’d do a quick write-up of my experience with them. For those who don’t know what Massdrop is, it is basically a group buy/made-to-order type setup. A drop appears for a limited time and the more people join, the cheaper it becomes. Usually the orders don’t start getting made until the drop finishes, so the trade-off for a lower price is that you can sometimes wait for weeks to months for your goods to arrive.

Continue reading “Massdrop x Allen Edmonds Chukka boots – 5 months on”

Footwear

Finally, shoe-trees for Australians!

Shoe trees are essential when taking care of your shoe investments. I have talked about shoe trees and how to properly take care of your shoes before, but access to good quality shoe trees have always been a problem in Australia. The Americans have pretty nice selection of shoe trees from brands like Woodlore, but shoe trees weigh quite a bit (they are made of wood and metal after all) so the shipping might cost as much as (or more than) the shoe trees themselves. EBay sells shoe trees but the sizing is a bit hit and miss, it’s usually not cedar, the quality is generally terrible, and the shipping is still not that cheap. So I had pretty much resigned myself to buying Florsheim shoe trees due to the lack of options. Until now!

Continue reading “Finally, shoe-trees for Australians!”